Wax-like fraction of olive oil – squalene, phytosterols, tocopherols. Hydrogenation makes it oxidation-stable. Structures a cream like a soft wax and gives a cushioning feel. Biocompatible with skin lipids. Pregnancy-safe.
Topical application
BLimited evidence. One RCT or several controlled studies with limitations.
Functional wax-like olive oil fraction. CIR confirmed safety. Contains squalene and phytosterols that partially replenish the barrier. Standalone activity is mild – the main effect is structural and sensorial.
Hydrogenated Olive Oil Unsaponifiables is the fraction left after the alkaline hydrolysis of olive oil that does not turn into soap. It consists of squalene (~30%), phytosterols (beta-sitosterol, campesterol, ~25%), tocopherols (~5%), and triterpene alcohols. After hydrogenation the fraction loses its double bonds, stops oxidizing, and takes on a wax-like consistency. INCI: Hydrogenated Olive Oil Unsaponifiables. In formulas it works as a co-emulsifier and structurant. Paired with Hydrogenated Ethylhexyl Olivate it forms the PhytOlea complex (Hallstar) or Olivem 900 (B&T) – a soft wax base for creams and sunscreens. The feel is cushioning but not greasy, biocompatible with skin lipids. Use levels are 1-5%. Biological activity. Squalene and phytosterols are intercellular-cement components and partially replenish the barrier in dry and atopic skin. Tocopherols add antioxidant potential. Effects are mild – the fraction works primarily as a functional structurant, not a standalone active. Pregnancy safety. Topical use is safe. Systemic absorption is minimal. No teratogenic or hormonal effects in the literature. Skin tolerance. Low irritation and allergen profile. Non-comedogenic. Suitable for dry, sensitive, and atopic skin. Does not cause the reactions typical of unmodified olive oil – there is no risk from oleic acid, which in pure form can disrupt the atopic skin barrier. This is a good example of how fractionating a natural raw material gives a more predictable and safer cosmetic ingredient than the parent oil.
Irritation potential
LowAllergen risk
LowPregnancy
SafeSuitable for
Hydrogenated Olive Oil Unsaponifiables is considered safe during pregnancy at typical cosmetic concentrations. Systemic absorption through the skin is minimal.
Hydrogenated Olive Oil Unsaponifiables suits: normal, dry, combination, sensitive.
Wax-like fraction of olive oil – squalene, phytosterols, tocopherols.
On the Fulton scale 0/5 – non-comedogenic. For acne-prone skin, a rating of 3 or higher suggests choosing an alternative.
The INCI name is Hydrogenated Olive Oil Unsaponifiables. It may also appear as: Olive Unsaponifiables, Гидрогенизированные неомыляемые оливкового масла.
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