Ceramides, cholesterol, phytosphingosine, and other lipids that restore a damaged skin barrier after active routines or dermatitis.
79 ingredients in database · 53 with tier A/B evidence · 73 safe in pregnancy
The skin barrier is the stratum corneum plus the intercellular lipids between corneocytes: ceramides (50%), cholesterol (25%), free fatty acids (25%). When this balance is disrupted – by aggressive cleansing, frequent peels, atopic dermatitis, xerosis, or post-laser recovery – skin loses water, reacts with stinging and redness, and becomes «sensitive» to routine cosmetics.
Barrier repair works through three mechanisms. First, external lipid replacement: ceramides NP, AP, EOP + cholesterol + fatty acids in a 3:1:1 ratio. Such formulas produce clinical improvement in atopic dermatitis within 2–4 weeks. Examples include CeraVe Healing Ointment, Avene Cicalfate+, La Roche-Posay Lipikar.
The second mechanism is stimulation of endogenous lipid synthesis. Niacinamide at 4–5% increases ceramide production in situ. Panthenol (provitamin B5) drives keratinocyte differentiation and accelerates fibroblast migration. Madecassoside from Centella asiatica accelerates regeneration and reduces inflammation.
The third is occlusion: stop water loss and give the barrier time to recover. Petrolatum reduces TEWL by 99% and is considered the dermatology gold standard. Squalane, dimethicone, and mineral oil are lighter occlusives that suit oily and combination skin.
Colloidal oatmeal (Avena Sativa Kernel Flour) is the only OTC ingredient FDA-approved as a skin protectant. It works in atopic dermatitis and sensitised skin, calming itch and redness. Common in post-procedure formulas.
Asiatic Acid
Centella triterpene acid. Stronger anti-inflammatory effect than asiaticoside in vitro; activates TGF-β for collagen synthesis.
Asiaticoside
One of four active triterpene compounds in Centella asiatica. Stimulates type I and III collagen synthesis in the dermis. Wound healing and anti-inflammatory effect.
Allantoin
Naturally derived uric acid derivative. Accelerates cell proliferation, reduces irritation, and softens the stratum corneum.
Beta-Glucan
Polysaccharide from yeast, fungal, or oat cell walls. An immunomodulator and humectant that stimulates macrophages and accelerates wound healing.
Petrolatum
Occlusive emollient made of purified hydrocarbons. Reduces transepidermal water loss by nearly 99% and restores the skin barrier after damage.
Evigrade currently tracks 79 ingredients in the «barrier repair» category. Of those, 53 carry evidence tier A or B.
73 ingredients in this category are flagged as safe during pregnancy at typical cosmetic concentrations. Always confirm the choice with an OB-GYN.
75 ingredients in this category show both low irritation potential and low allergen risk, making them safe even for reactive and sensitised skin. A patch test is still advisable before first use.
Start with a single high-evidence ingredient (tier A or B) at a low concentration, 2–3 times per week. After 2–3 weeks without reaction, frequency can be increased. Do not introduce two new actives at once – if skin reacts, you won't know which one caused it.
Other categories
Centella triterpene acid. Stronger anti-inflammatory effect than asiaticoside in vitro; activates TGF-β for collagen synthesis
One of four active triterpene compounds in Centella asiatica. Stimulates type I and III collagen synthesis in the dermis. Wound healing and anti-inflammatory effect
Naturally derived uric acid derivative. Accelerates cell proliferation, reduces irritation, and softens the stratum corneum
Prebiotic oligosaccharide that supports the skin microbiome balance. Boosts beneficial flora growth and suppresses pathogens
Branched polysaccharide from larch with prebiotic action. Feeds beneficial skin microbiota, forms a soft protective film and reinforces the barrier
Oil from argania fruit kernels. Contains oleic and linoleic acids, tocopherols, and sterols. Moisturizes, softens, and supports the lipid barrier
Polysaccharide from yeast, fungal, or oat cell walls. An immunomodulator and humectant that stimulates macrophages and accelerates wound healing
Plant phytosterol structurally close to cholesterol. Softens skin and supports the lipid barrier, especially in dryness and flaking
Polysaccharide from sorbitol fermentation by Sphingomonas elodea. Forms a thin smooth film on skin, boosts surface smoothness, holds moisture and acts as a mild prebiotic
Occlusive emollient made of purified hydrocarbons. Reduces transepidermal water loss by nearly 99% and restores the skin barrier after damage
Wax-like fraction of olive oil – squalene, phytosterols, tocopherols. Hydrogenation makes it oxidation-stable. Structures a cream like a soft wax and gives a cushioning feel. Biocompatible with skin lipids. Pregnancy-safe
Phospholipid from soy or sunflower raw materials, hydrogenated for greater stability. Works as an emulsifier and integrates into the skin lipid barrier
Low-molecular-weight protein hydrolysate from yeast – a source of amino acids and peptides. Supports hydration and epidermal regeneration. Pregnancy-safe
Enzymatically cleaved centella extract – increased bioavailability of triterpenes and peptides. Barrier regeneration. Pregnancy-safe
Natural osmolyte from the cyanobacterium Nostoc – a strong humectant that activates aquaporin-3 in the skin. Pregnancy-safe
The simplest trihydric alcohol and one of the most common humectants in cosmetics. Draws water from the environment and retains it in the stratum corneum
Active component of licorice root. Anti-inflammatory effect supported by RCTs in atopic dermatitis and rosacea
Finely ground oat flour with anti-inflammatory, moisturizing, and barrier properties. FDA-approved as an OTC skin protectant. Avenanthramides are the active anti-inflammatory compounds
Salt of lactic acid, a natural component of the skin's NMF. Strong humectant that retains moisture and supports acidic barrier pH, with a lighter feel than glycerin
Inactivated lactic-acid bacteria (tyndalized, lysate). Marketed as a skin probiotic. Real clinical evidence comes from small RCTs in atopic dermatitis. Pregnancy-safe and low-allergenicity
Lactobacillus probiotic lysate with soothing and barrier-supporting action. Appears in sensitive-skin lines such as La Roche-Posay Toleriane
Wax-like fat from sheep wool. A strong occlusive whose composition mirrors human skin lipids: it restores the barrier and heals cracks, especially on dry areas and nursing nipples
Mix of phospholipids, usually from soy or sunflower. Natural emulsifier and carrier: aids active delivery into the stratum corneum and forms liposomal systems
Bifidobacteria probiotic lysate, the key active in Estee Lauder Advanced Night Repair serum. Works on skin barrier recovery
Brewer's yeast lysate – a source of amino acids, beta-glucans and B vitamins. Supports epidermal regeneration and evens out skin tone. Pregnancy-safe
Essential omega-6 fatty acid. Key component of type-1 ceramides (Ceramide EOS, EOH) – the foundation of skin barrier function. In acne patients, sebum linoleic acid is often low, contributing to pilosebaceous inflammation. Topical application in acne and dry skin restores the balance. Present in safflower, sunflower, and grape seed oils
Essential omega-3 fatty acid. Restores skin barrier in EFA deficiency states, anti-inflammatory potential
Centella triterpene acid. With asiaticoside it forms TECA – a clinically proven wound-healing preparation
The primary triterpenic glycoside from Centella asiatica. Suppresses inflammation and stimulates type I collagen synthesis. More standardized than raw centella extract
Madecassoside derivative with vitamin C – combines the anti-inflammatory action of centella with antioxidant effect of ascorbate. Pregnancy-safe
Fatty oil rich in oleic acid and unsaponifiable lipids. Softens dry skin and supports the lipid barrier
Oil from evening primrose seeds. One of the richest plant sources of gamma-linolenic acid (8–10%). Supports the barrier in atopic and dry skin, particularly in patients with omega-6 deficiency
Pomegranate seed oil. Up to 65–70% punicic acid – a unique conjugated omega-5 with anti-elastase activity shown in vitro
Liquid wax compositionally similar to human sebum. Absorbs quickly without leaving a greasy sheen. Suitable even for oily skin
Fatty oil from oat kernels. Softens skin, reinforces the lipid barrier; popular in formulas for atopic and dry skin
Oil from the Australian nut. Uniquely high in omega-7 palmitoleic acid, which naturally declines with age. Absorbs well and works for both skin and hair
Oil from the kernels of the South African marula tree. Up to 70% oleic acid plus high tocopherol levels: lightweight on the skin, nourishing with antioxidant support
Rich orange oil with carotenoids, vitamin E and omega-7. Restores dry skin and at higher doses can tint skin and fabrics
Borage seed oil, an even richer GLA source: up to 20–25%. Similar to primrose oil but requires a smaller dose for the barrier effect
Seed oil of a South American vine – record content of omega-3 (up to 50%). Restores the lipid barrier and reduces water loss. Non-comedogenic, pregnancy-safe
Oil with an optimal omega-6/omega-3 ratio (3:1). Contains no THC. Absorbs well, does not clog pores, and strengthens the lipid barrier
Oil from passion-flower seeds. Up to 70% linoleic acid – a high omega-6 contribution to the barrier, especially for acne-prone skin. Contains tocopherols and carotenoids as natural antioxidants. Non-comedogenic and pregnancy-safe
Plant oil rich in linoleic acid (omega-6). Restores the lipid barrier in EFA deficiency states, light texture
Chia seed oil. Highest content of α-linolenic acid (omega-3) among plant oils. Restores the barrier in dry and atopic skin
Dark green oil from Pacific islands. Contains calophyllolide and inophyllin – compounds with anti-inflammatory and wound-healing action. Used for acne, scars and post-acne marks
Oil extract of gotu kola – a carrier of triterpene saponins (asiaticoside, madecassoside). Barrier repair and anti-inflammatory action. Pregnancy-safe
Plant butter from shea tree nuts. Rich in fatty acids and unsaponifiables with anti-inflammatory properties. Intensely softens skin and restores the barrier
A natural moisturizing factor (NMF) present in the stratum corneum. Low concentrations moisturize; high concentrations act as a keratolytic. The gold standard for hyperkeratosis and xerosis
Carboxymethyl derivative of beta-glucan from yeast or oats – a water-soluble form with improved bioavailability. An immunomodulator with anti-inflammatory activity. Useful in atopic dermatitis and post-procedure recovery. Pregnancy-safe
Vitamin B3 form with a wide action spectrum: brightens pigmentation, strengthens the barrier, minimizes pores, and reduces sebum production
Saturated fatty acid with 16 carbons. One of the baseline components of the skin's lipid mantle (approximately 20% of stratum corneum fatty acids). In cosmetics it is used as an emulsifier component and emollient. Also found in palm-oil-based soaps. At excess concentration it can leave a heavy film feel
Alcohol analogue of pantothenic acid. Penetrates skin and converts to pantothenic acid, required for coenzyme A synthesis. Accelerates healing and reduces irritation
Water-soluble vitamin B5, biochemical precursor of coenzyme A. Cosmetics more often use the proalcohol form D-Panthenol (dexpanthenol), which converts to pantothenic acid on skin. The acid itself is used less often – it is unstable in aqueous formulas, and D-Panthenol has better penetration. In acne and post-procedure skin, pantothenate stimulates reparative processes in keratinocytes
Plant oil high in linoleic acid. Restores the lipid barrier in xerosis. Recommended as a base oil for newborns instead of olive oil
Biomimetic phosphorylcholine polymer – a hydrating film-former that mimics the cell membrane. Pregnancy-safe
Purified aloe vera polysaccharide fraction – acemannan and related glucomannans. Deep hydration and anti-inflammatory action. Pregnancy-safe
Protein fraction of gotu kola extract – a source of amino acids for epidermal regeneration. Pregnancy-safe
Natural wax bees secrete to build honeycomb. In cosmetics it thickens balms, lipsticks and rich creams, forming a stable film that helps lock in moisture
Lipophilic salicylic acid derivative linked to phytosphingosine (a ceramide precursor). Combines exfoliating and barrier-restoring properties
L-Serine is a non-essential amino acid and a component of the natural moisturizing factor (NMF) of the stratum corneum. Holds water in the epidermis. Often listed alongside glycine, alanine, and histidine in amino-acid complexes. Pregnancy-safe
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When the barrier is compromised, pull all actives from the routine: retinoids, AHA/BHA, high-strength vitamin C, essential oils, fragrance. Actives can return 2–3 weeks after skin stops reacting to a plain moisturiser.