A urea derivative – a strong NMF-class humectant. Holds water in the stratum corneum better than glycerin without stickiness or irritation. Pregnancy-safe.
Topical application
BLimited evidence. One RCT or several controlled studies with limitations.
NMF humectant, outperforms glycerin in water retention. Low irritation risk.
Hydroxyethyl Urea is a urea derivative in which one hydrogen atom is replaced by a 2-hydroxyethyl group. INCI: Hydroxyethyl Urea. Sold under the Hydrovance brand (Akzo Nobel). A colorless viscous liquid, miscible with water. In cosmetics it works as a strong humectant – a component of the skin's NMF (Natural Moisturizing Factor). It outperforms glycerin in water-binding capacity without leaving a sticky feel. Unlike classical urea it has no unpleasant odor on decomposition and does not acidify the formula. Use levels run from 1 to 10%. Pregnancy safety. Skin absorption into the systemic circulation is minimal. The manufacturer ran skin and systemic safety tests – no effects described. Skin profile. Low irritation potential. Very low allergen risk. Non-comedogenic. Suitable for all skin types, especially dry, dehydrated and atopic. Unlike 5-10% urea it has no keratolytic effect – a pure humectant. No active effects on collagen or pigmentation, but by improving hydration it is often mentioned in anti-aging formulas.
Irritation potential
LowAllergen risk
LowPregnancy
SafeSuitable for
Hydroxyethyl Urea is considered safe during pregnancy at typical cosmetic concentrations. Systemic absorption through the skin is minimal.
Hydroxyethyl Urea suits: normal, dry, combination, oily, sensitive.
A urea derivative – a strong NMF-class humectant.
On the Fulton scale 0/5 – non-comedogenic. For acne-prone skin, a rating of 3 or higher suggests choosing an alternative.
The INCI name is Hydroxyethyl Urea. It may also appear as: Hydrovance, Гидроксиэтил мочевина.
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