Humectants, occlusives, and emollients – three classes of moisturizers. Which work, which are marketing.
148 ingredients in database · 66 with tier A/B evidence · 140 safe in pregnancy
Skin moisturisation works through three mechanisms. Humectants (glycerin, hyaluronic acid, sodium PCA, betaine, urea) pull water from the environment and from deeper skin layers into the stratum corneum. Occlusives (petrolatum, squalane, dimethicone, lanolin) form a film that slows transepidermal water loss (TEWL). Emollients (oils, fatty alcohols, ceramides, cholesterol) restore the intercellular lipid matrix between corneocytes.
The strongest effect comes from combining all three classes in one formula. That is the backbone of dermatological moisturisers for atopic skin and post-procedure recovery – CeraVe, Eucerin Aquaphor, La Roche-Posay Toleriane.
Hyaluronic acid is a cult ingredient, but it delivers only a surface, short-term effect. Low-molecular-weight HA (<50 kDa) penetrates deeper but at high concentrations can trigger inflammation. In dry climate or air-conditioned rooms, HA may actually pull water OUT of skin unless sealed with an occlusive on top.
Ceramides NP, AP, EOP make up about 50% of stratum corneum lipids. Their deficit is a key factor in atopic dermatitis. Clinical-grade moisturisers for atopic skin are built around a ceramide + cholesterol + fatty acid ratio of 3:1:1.
What works poorly: ethanol at high concentrations (>10% near the top of the ingredient list), surfactants in «moisturising» face washes, and mineral oil on already-damaged skin as the sole occlusive.
N-Acetyl Glucosamine
Amino sugar, a precursor of hyaluronic acid. Inhibits tyrosinase, so it lightens post-acne marks and melasma, especially when paired with niacinamide. Also supports skin HA synthesis.
Alanine
Non-essential amino acid. Part of the skin's natural moisturizing factor (NMF), humectant.
Aloe Vera
Gel from aloe leaves containing polysaccharides, vitamins, and amino acids. Moisturizes, soothes irritated skin, and accelerates healing of minor injuries.
Aspartic Acid
NMF amino acid – a component of the skin's natural moisturizing factor. Pregnancy-safe.
Sodium Acetylated Hyaluronate
Hyaluronic acid with acetyl groups on the molecule. Acetylation adds lipophilicity, improves skin affinity and extends moisture retention versus the regular form.
Evigrade currently tracks 148 ingredients in the «moisturizing» category. Of those, 66 carry evidence tier A or B.
140 ingredients in this category are flagged as safe during pregnancy at typical cosmetic concentrations. Always confirm the choice with an OB-GYN.
138 ingredients in this category show both low irritation potential and low allergen risk, making them safe even for reactive and sensitised skin. A patch test is still advisable before first use.
Start with a single high-evidence ingredient (tier A or B) at a low concentration, 2–3 times per week. After 2–3 weeks without reaction, frequency can be increased. Do not introduce two new actives at once – if skin reacts, you won't know which one caused it.
Other categories
Solvent and preservative booster. Helps reduce the dose of classic preservatives in the formula and slightly retains skin moisture
Light synthetic emollient with a silky texture. Gives skin soft slip without a greasy film and does not clog pores
Amino sugar, a precursor of hyaluronic acid. Inhibits tyrosinase, so it lightens post-acne marks and melasma, especially when paired with niacinamide. Also supports skin HA synthesis
Non-essential amino acid. Part of the skin's natural moisturizing factor (NMF), humectant
Gel from aloe leaves containing polysaccharides, vitamins, and amino acids. Moisturizes, soothes irritated skin, and accelerates healing of minor injuries
Dehydrated form of xylitol, humectant. Often part of the Aquaxyl complex (with xylitol and xylitylglucoside)
Branched polysaccharide from larch with prebiotic action. Feeds beneficial skin microbiota, forms a soft protective film and reinforces the barrier
Oil from argania fruit kernels. Contains oleic and linoleic acids, tocopherols, and sterols. Moisturizes, softens, and supports the lipid barrier
Amino acid; participates in collagen synthesis and acts as a pH regulator replacing synthetic alkalis. In skin formulas works as a mild humectant
NMF amino acid – a component of the skin's natural moisturizing factor. Pregnancy-safe
Collagen with enzymatically cleaved telopeptides at the molecule ends. Removing terminal regions lowers immunogenicity and eases protein handling in formulas
Hyaluronic acid with acetyl groups on the molecule. Acetylation adds lipophilicity, improves skin affinity and extends moisture retention versus the regular form
Polysaccharide from yeast, fungal, or oat cell walls. An immunomodulator and humectant that stimulates macrophages and accelerates wound healing
Amino-acid humectant from sugar beet. Holds water in the stratum corneum, softens dryness and tightness, compatible with any formula
Polysaccharide from sorbitol fermentation by Sphingomonas elodea. Forms a thin smooth film on skin, boosts surface smoothness, holds moisture and acts as a mild prebiotic
Multifunctional solvent and humectant. Improves cosmetic formula texture and helps active ingredients penetrate the skin
Occlusive emollient made of purified hydrocarbons. Reduces transepidermal water loss by nearly 99% and restores the skin barrier after damage
The number one solvent in cosmetic formulas. Provides hydration of the upper stratum corneum but does not penetrate into deeper layers
Polyhydroxy acid, a structural sibling of lactobionic acid. Used in very gentle acid formulations for sensitive skin and post-procedure recovery. A larger molecule than AHAs, it acts mostly at the surface without provoking stinging or redness. Moisturising effect from multiple hydroxyl groups
Sodium salt of hyaluronic acid. Structurally more stable than the acid itself and more common in formulations. Molecular weight determines behaviour: high-MW (> 1 MDa) holds water at the surface, low-MW (< 50 kDa) penetrates deeper. Cosmetics typically use a mix of MWs. A baseline moisturising active across all segments
Natural polysaccharide that binds water up to 1000 times its own weight. Topical application creates a surface humectant effect without dermal penetration
Fragmented hyaluronic acid with a mass <50 kDa. Penetrates the epidermis better than the high-molecular form, but at high concentrations may trigger a pro-inflammatory response
Phospholipid from soy or sunflower raw materials, hydrogenated for greater stability. Works as an emulsifier and integrates into the skin lipid barrier
Synthetic liquid hydrocarbon with controlled molecular weight. A clean alternative to mineral oil – free of aromatic-hydrocarbon traces
A urea derivative – a strong NMF-class humectant. Holds water in the stratum corneum better than glycerin without stickiness or irritation. Pregnancy-safe
Humectant, a urea relative. Attracts moisture into the stratum corneum and softens the skin without a drying effect
Raspberry fruit hydrosol – a mild water base with antioxidant properties due to polyphenols. Suitable for sensitive skin. Pregnancy-safe
Sea buckthorn berry water – a mild base with antioxidant properties. Contains vitamin C and carotenoids in trace amounts. Pregnancy-safe
Rose hydrosol – a by-product of distilling Damask rose petals. Light hydrating and soothing action, pleasant scent. Suitable for all skin types. Pregnancy-safe
Water-soluble form of jojoba waxes. Softens skin, aids formula spreadability, and partially restores the lipid film after cleansing
Low-molecular-weight hyaluronic acid that penetrates deeper into the epidermis. Humectant with accumulated evidence on hydration
Low-molecular-weight protein hydrolysate from yeast – a source of amino acids and peptides. Supports hydration and epidermal regeneration. Pregnancy-safe
Collagen fragments broken down to peptides and amino acids. Moisturize the skin surface but do not integrate into the dermis's own collagen. Marketing often exaggerates the effect
Blend of hydrolyzed proteins (soy, wheat, corn). Humectant and film-former. Note: contains cereal proteins – potential allergen
Low-molecular-weight peptide hydrolysate of elastin (a dermal structural protein). Surface hydration and film-forming effect; does not rebuild the skin's own elastin. Pregnancy-safe
Energy-reserve polysaccharide – a mild humectant and stimulator of cellular respiration. Pregnancy-safe
Hydrogel polymer with embedded glycerin. Functionally and sensorially similar to glyceryl polyacrylate – it forms clear lightweight gels with a humectant effect. Pregnancy-safe and low-allergenicity
Natural osmolyte from the cyanobacterium Nostoc – a strong humectant that activates aquaporin-3 in the skin. Pregnancy-safe
Hydrogel polymer – cross-linked polyacrylic acid that holds glycerin. Forms clear, lightweight gels with a strong humectant effect. Common near the top of INCI lists in aqua-gels and masks. Low allergenicity and pregnancy-safe
A gel-forming polymer – holds water and creates a hydro-reservoir on the skin. Gives a cool, long-lasting moisturizing feel, common in serums and gels. Pregnancy-safe
The simplest trihydric alcohol and one of the most common humectants in cosmetics. Draws water from the environment and retains it in the stratum corneum
Simplest NMF amino acid – a humectant and pH buffer. Pregnancy-safe
Amino acid, part of NMF. Humectant, supports stratum corneum hydration
Simple sugar – a natural humectant. Holds water in the stratum corneum and gently softens the skin. Pregnancy-safe
Polyhydroxy acid (PHA) – a gentle AHA alternative. Its large molecular size slows penetration, reducing irritation. Also hydrates through hygroscopicity
Plant-derived ester emollient. Gives a velvety dry glide without a greasy afterfeel
Silicone polymer that forms a protective film on the skin to lock in moisture. Gives products a silky texture and does not penetrate the dermis
Glycol with two propylene units. Dissolves fragrances and actives, holds water in the stratum corneum and reduces formula viscosity
Light synthetic emollient with a dry finish. Dissolves pigments and oils, so it appears in makeup removers and primers
Oil from fig seeds rich in linoleic and oleic acids. Softens skin and supports the lipid barrier without a heavy film
Prebiotic polysaccharide from chicory root. Feeds beneficial skin microbiome bacteria and holds moisture
Fermented milk product – source of lactic acid, lactose, proteins, calcium. In cosmetics it works as a mild humectant with a gentle exfoliating effect from lactate. Avoid in milk-protein allergic patients. Pregnancy-safe
Spray-dried yogurt – a concentrated form with milk proteins, lactose, lactic acid, calcium. More stable than liquid yogurt and easier for emulsions. Avoid in milk-protein allergic patients. Pregnancy-safe
Polyglutamic acid from fermented natto soy. Forms a hydrating film and holds water more efficiently than hyaluronic acid
Blend of caprylic and capric acid glycerides from coconut oil. Light emollient, boosts penetration of oil-soluble actives
Multifunctional ingredient that boosts preservatives and works as a mild humectant and conditioner. Often paired with phenoxyethanol
Lightweight emollient derived from coconut or palm kernel oil. Non-comedogenic, absorbs quickly, and is used as a replacement for heavier oils
Thick oil from castor seeds with high ricinoleic acid content. Gives shine to lipsticks and balms, softens lips and holds pigment on the surface
Tropical oil high in lauric acid. Moisturizes well but is comedogenic and can clog pores when applied to the face
Finely ground oat flour with anti-inflammatory, moisturizing, and barrier properties. FDA-approved as an OTC skin protectant. Avenanthramides are the active anti-inflammatory compounds
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