Bulb extract of sea daffodil (Pancratium maritimum). Contains the alkaloids pancratistatin and lycorine. Marketing promotes anti-aging and slimming effects, but clinical human evidence is limited – most data are in vitro. Safe topically during pregnancy.
Topical application
DVery weak or conflicting data.
Evidence at the level of in-vitro and manufacturer-funded studies. Independent human RCTs are scarce. Traffic light YELLOW – niche ingredient whose marketing reputation outpaces the actual evidence.
Pancratium maritimum (sea daffodil) is a bulbous plant of the Amaryllidaceae family from Mediterranean coasts. It grows on sand dunes. The bulb contains a characteristic set of alkaloids: pancratistatin, lycorine, haemanthamine, tazettine. In vitro, these molecules show antitumor and antiviral activity – the basis of the original pharmacological interest. INCI: Pancratium Maritimum Extract. Trade names: Helionie (Codif), Pancrathione. In cosmetics it is used as an aqueous-glycolic or glycolic bulb extract. Manufacturers promote it in three directions: 1. Anti-aging – claimed stimulation of proteasome activity and reduction of stratum-corneum protein carbonylation. 2. Brightening – tyrosinase inhibition and pigment spot lightening. 3. Body slimming – lipolysis activation in adipocytes. Actual evidence. Most published data are from cell cultures and rare animal in-vivo studies. Independent peer-reviewed RCTs in humans are scarce. Codif has published several in-house studies with positive results, but without independent replication this is weak evidence. Pregnancy safety. Topical use at cosmetic concentrations (1-3% extract) is safe. Systemic absorption of alkaloids through the skin is minimal. Oral intake of the extract or bulb decoction during pregnancy is contraindicated – lycorine is toxic at high doses and theoretically uterotonic. This applies only to oral intake, not cosmetic use. Skin tolerance. Low irritation and allergen potential at cosmetic concentrations. Suitable for most skin types. People allergic to daffodils and amaryllidaceae may cross-react.
Irritation potential
LowAllergen risk
LowPregnancy
SafeSuitable for
Pancratium Maritimum Extract is considered safe during pregnancy at typical cosmetic concentrations. Systemic absorption through the skin is minimal.
Pancratium Maritimum Extract suits: normal, dry, combination. Use with caution in: sensitive.
Bulb extract of sea daffodil (Pancratium maritimum).
On the Fulton scale 0/5 – non-comedogenic. For acne-prone skin, a rating of 3 or higher suggests choosing an alternative.
The INCI name is Pancratium Maritimum Extract. It may also appear as: Sea Daffodil Extract, Helionie, Экстракт морского нарцисса.
Published: · updated:
Use with caution