Anti-aging cosmetic ingredients

Water-soluble antioxidant that inhibits tyrosinase and stimulates collagen synthesis. Unstable upon oxidation, requiring careful storage

Amino sugar, a precursor of hyaluronic acid. Inhibits tyrosinase, so it lightens post-acne marks and melasma, especially when paired with niacinamide. Also supports skin HA synthesis

Synthetic tripeptide modeled on a peptide from the temple viper venom. Marketing compares it to botox; actual clinical studies are scarce

Third-generation synthetic retinoid. Photostable, less irritating than tretinoin. Available OTC at 0.1% concentration (Differin)

Natural nucleoside acting via skin adenosine receptors. Stimulates collagen synthesis and improves skin firmness

Amphiphilic antioxidant soluble in both water and oils. Skincare promises «universal anti-aging protection»; clinical studies more often show a moderate effect

Stable water-soluble vitamin C derivative. More oxidation-stable than L-ascorbic acid, but antioxidant and brightening activity are lower

Lipid-soluble ester of vitamin C with palmitic acid. More stable than L-ascorbic acid, does not require acidic pH, and fits oil and emulsion formulas. However, hydrolysis in skin is limited and true vitamin C bioactivity is reduced. Often used as an antioxidant to stabilise oils in formulation

Stable glycoside of ascorbic acid. Converted to vitamin C by alpha-glucosidase after skin penetration

Oil-soluble vitamin C derivative. More stable than L-ascorbic acid with better penetration through the lipid barrier. Converts to ascorbic acid inside the skin

Red carotenoid from the microalga Haematococcus pluvialis. A strong antioxidant, but topical formulas run into its low penetration ability

Updated version of the Argireline peptide. Marketing promises a reduction of expression wrinkles «like botox», but clinical effects are much more modest

Synthetic peptide, an elongated analogue of Argireline (Acetyl Hexapeptide-8). The manufacturer Lipotec claims SNARE-complex blockade at facial muscle synapses – a 'mechanism close to botulinum toxin'. Used in anti-age serums to smooth expression lines – glabellar, nasolabial, and outer eye wrinkles. Real effects are substantially weaker than botulinum therapy

Peptide with potential stimulation of thymus-driven epidermal renewal. Features in formulas against tone loss and tired skin

Acetylated 4-amino-acid peptide – an anti-glycation and anti-puffiness component. Used in products against eye puffiness and dark circles. Pregnancy-safe

Synthetic peptide, a SNAP-25 fragment. Marketed as 'botox in a jar' – suppresses neurotransmitter release at the neuromuscular junction. In reality, the effect is orders of magnitude weaker than botulinum toxin

Decapeptide with claimed anti-aging effect via fibroblast stimulation. Evidence is limited to in vitro and manufacturer-sponsored studies

Plant meroterpene from Psoralea corylifolia seeds. Marketed as a "plant-based retinol alternative" – activates the same receptor pathways without retinoid irritation

Carotenoid precursor of vitamin A. Antioxidant action; gives the formula an orange-yellow tint. Pregnancy-safe at cosmetic concentrations

Marketing hexapeptide with claimed effect on collagen synthesis. Evidence base is predominantly manufacturer-sponsored

Synthetic modified dipeptide with a claimed anti-aging effect. Evidence base is limited to manufacturer-sponsored studies

A citrus flavonoid derived from hesperidin. In cosmetics it is used as a vascular-supporting ingredient in anti-redness and anti-age eye products. The manufacturer claims reduced capillary permeability and lessened dark circles and puffiness. Found in well-known eye complexes (Eyeliss, Haloxyl)

Fragmented hyaluronic acid with a mass <50 kDa. Penetrates the epidermis better than the high-molecular form, but at high concentrations may trigger a pro-inflammatory response

Retinoic acid ester known under the brand Granactive Retinoid. Irritates the skin less than retinol but also has a noticeably smaller clinical base

Raspberry fruit hydrosol – a mild water base with antioxidant properties due to polyphenols. Suitable for sensitive skin. Pregnancy-safe

Low-molecular-weight protein hydrolysate from yeast – a source of amino acids and peptides. Supports hydration and epidermal regeneration. Pregnancy-safe

Enzymatically cleaved centella extract – increased bioavailability of triterpenes and peptides. Barrier regeneration. Pregnancy-safe

Alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA) with the smallest molecular weight in the group. Accelerates desquamation, evens skin tone and texture

Tripeptide of glutamate, cysteine and glycine – key intracellular antioxidant. In cosmetics it promises skin brightening through tyrosinase inhibition and a switch in melanin synthesis

Polyhydroxy acid (PHA) – a gentle AHA alternative. Its large molecular size slows penetration, reducing irritation. Also hydrates through hygroscopicity

Synthetic dipeptide (Val-Trp) – an ACE inhibitor, helps drainage and reduces eyelid puffiness. Often found in eye products. Pregnancy-safe

Synthetic analog of coenzyme Q10 – a potent antioxidant with high penetration. Protects against UV stress. Pregnancy-safe

Synthetic analog of ubiquinone (CoQ10) with higher stability. Works as an antioxidant and mitochondrial protector and has been studied in dermatology since the 2000s

Dipeptide of beta-alanine and histidine, a natural antioxidant. Binds glycation end-products and protects skin proteins from oxidation

Alkaloid from coffee beans and tea leaves. Stimulates microcirculation, constricts vessels and delivers antioxidant protection

Natural compound synthesised by the body for muscle energy metabolism. Entered cosmetics from the anti-age segment: the manufacturer claims support for skin cell energy metabolism and an anti-age effect. Particularly common in German brands (Nivea Q10, anti-age line from Beiersdorf)

Group of oxygenated carotenoids (lutein, zeaxanthin) – antioxidants with confirmed protection against blue light. Pregnancy-safe

Polyhydroxy acid (PHA) with antioxidant properties. Chelates iron ions, preventing oxidative stress. Its large molecule provides gentle exfoliation without irritation

Bifidobacteria probiotic lysate, the key active in Estee Lauder Advanced Night Repair serum. Works on skin barrier recovery

Brewer's yeast lysate – a source of amino acids, beta-glucans and B vitamins. Supports epidermal regeneration and evens out skin tone. Pregnancy-safe

Stable water-soluble vitamin C derivative. Weaker antioxidant activity than L-ascorbic acid, but it spares sensitive skin and works at neutral pH

The primary triterpenic glycoside from Centella asiatica. Suppresses inflammation and stimulates type I collagen synthesis. More standardized than raw centella extract

Madecassoside derivative with vitamin C – combines the anti-inflammatory action of centella with antioxidant effect of ascorbate. Pregnancy-safe

Light fatty oil with a high share of linoleic acid. Suits oily and combination skin – absorbs faster than olive or avocado

Pomegranate seed oil. Up to 65–70% punicic acid – a unique conjugated omega-5 with anti-elastase activity shown in vitro

Oil from the kernels of the South African marula tree. Up to 70% oleic acid plus high tocopherol levels: lightweight on the skin, nourishing with antioxidant support

Rich orange oil with carotenoids, vitamin E and omega-7. Restores dry skin and at higher doses can tint skin and fabrics

Oil extract of gotu kola – a carrier of triterpene saponins (asiaticoside, madecassoside). Barrier repair and anti-inflammatory action. Pregnancy-safe

Synthetic peptide mimicking a type I collagen fragment. Activates synthesis of collagen, fibronectin, and hyaluronic acid via dermal cell signaling pathways

Tripeptide-copper complex that stimulates synthesis of collagen, elastin, and glycosaminoglycans. Accelerates wound healing and exerts anti-inflammatory effects

Copper chelate with pyrrolidone carboxylic acid. In skincare it's a claimed antioxidant, copper source for elastin synthesis. Evidence is limited

AHA with a large molecule (bigger than glycolic acid). Penetrates skin more slowly, making it gentler. Suitable for darker phototypes where glycolic acid more often triggers post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation

AHA with dual action: acid exfoliation and moisturization via hygroscopicity. Gentler than glycolic acid

Carboxymethyl derivative of beta-glucan from yeast or oats – a water-soluble form with improved bioavailability. An immunomodulator with anti-inflammatory activity. Useful in atopic dermatitis and post-procedure recovery. Pregnancy-safe

Synthetic 9-amino-acid peptide – an α-MSH receptor inhibitor, a brightening component. Reduces melanin synthesis in melanocytes. Pregnancy-safe

Synthetic lipopeptide of six amino acids with a palmitic tail for better penetration. The manufacturer claims stimulation of collagen and glycosaminoglycan synthesis and wrinkle smoothing. Part of well-known anti-age complexes (Matrixyl synthe'6). Belongs to the 'signalling peptide' class

Synthetic lipopeptide that suppresses interleukin-6 (IL-6), a pro-inflammatory cytokine. Part of the Matrixyl 3000 complex alongside palmitoyl tripeptide-1

Lipopeptide mimicking a collagen fragment. Stimulates fibroblasts to produce collagen and hyaluronic acid. Often combined with palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7 (Matrixyl 3000)

Peptide mimicking TSP-1 – an activator of latent TGF-β. Stimulates collagen synthesis in vitro. One of the better-studied cosmetic peptides

Salmon DNA fragments with molecular weight 50–1500 kDa. Activate purinergic receptors, stimulating angiogenesis and regeneration. Topical application is limited by molecular size