Oil-soluble vitamin C derivative. More stable than L-ascorbic acid with better penetration through the lipid barrier. Converts to ascorbic acid inside the skin.
Topical application
BLimited evidence. One RCT or several controlled studies with limitations.
Small clinical studies show brightening and antioxidant effects. Lipophilicity ensures good penetration, but conversion rate to the active form is lower than L-ascorbic acid. No large comparative RCTs.
Irritation potential
LowAllergen risk
LowPregnancy
SafeSuitable for
Works well with
Hydroxypinacolone RetinoateГидроксипинаколон ретиноат
HPR and THD ascorbate are both lipophilic and pH-neutral. Often formulated together in anhydrous anti-aging serums – convenient for retinoid adaptation.
RetinolРетинол
THD ascorbate is the oil-soluble form of vitamin C and pairs cleanly with retinol and its derivatives in anhydrous and oil-based serums. No pH conflict, no stinging.
Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate is considered safe during pregnancy at typical cosmetic concentrations. Systemic absorption through the skin is minimal.
Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate suits: sensitive, dry, normal, combination.
Oil-soluble vitamin C derivative.
The INCI name is Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate. It may also appear as: Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate, THD Ascorbate, Аскорбилтетраизопальмитат.
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RetinaldehydeРетиналь
The oil-based THD form of C is oxidation-resistant and pH-neutral. Often sits in a single formula with retinal in anti-aging brands (Medik8, Avene).