Cosmetic ingredients

Solvent and preservative booster. Helps reduce the dose of classic preservatives in the formula and slightly retains skin moisture

A diol – solvent and humectant, milder than propylene glycol. Close in properties to butylene glycol. Pregnancy-safe

1,8-octanediol – mild preservative booster, relative of caprylyl glycol. Supports the preservative system, hydrating

Stable vitamin C derivative. Better pH stability than L-ascorbic acid; penetrates skin and converts to the active form. Antioxidant and brightening effect

Tyrosinase and TRP-1 inhibitor, known as Rucinol. Works on both melanin synthesis steps, so it delivers stronger depigmentation

Ethoxylated C12-13 fatty alcohol – a nonionic co-emulsifier. Pregnancy-safe

Light synthetic emollient with a silky texture. Gives skin soft slip without a greasy film and does not clog pores

A plant-based nonionic co-emulsifier. Complements C14-22 Alcohols in natural emulsions. Suitable for sensitive skin, pregnancy-safe

Lightweight plant-derived emollient from sugarcane or palm oil. Substitutes silicones and cyclomethicone – gives a dry, slippery feel without a film. Common near the top of INCI lists in sunscreens and lightweight creams. Non-comedogenic and pregnancy-safe

Mixture of C14-C22 fatty alcohols – a structurant and co-emulsifier. Unrelated to ethyl alcohol, does not dry skin. Pregnancy-safe

Red mineral pigment based on iron oxide. Gives warm tones in foundations, lipsticks and blushes

Yellow mineral pigment based on iron oxide. Builds base yellow and beige tones in decorative cosmetics

Black mineral pigment based on iron oxide. Delivers deep dark tones in mascaras and eyeliners

Synthetic fragrance ingredient with a lily-of-the-valley scent. Banned in EU cosmetics since August 2021 due to high sensitization

Water-soluble antioxidant that inhibits tyrosinase and stimulates collagen synthesis. Unstable upon oxidation, requiring careful storage

Amino sugar, a precursor of hyaluronic acid. Inhibits tyrosinase, so it lightens post-acne marks and melasma, especially when paired with niacinamide. Also supports skin HA synthesis

Mid-weight polyethylene glycol – a solvent and humectant. Pregnancy-safe

Water-soluble silicone surfactant-emulsifier. Stabilizes oil-in-water emulsions and provides soft slip on skin

Nonionic PEG emulsifier and thickener for cleansers. Softens anionic surfactants and makes foam denser and creamier

Mild nonionic co-surfactant and refatting agent in cleansers. Reduces the degreasing effect of primary surfactants and restores skin comfort after washing

Mid-weight polyethylene glycol – a humectant solvent and solubilizer. Helps blend water- and oil-soluble components and softens the texture. Pregnancy-safe

Copolymer of polyvinyl methyl ether and maleic anhydride – a film-former for hair sprays, mascaras and water-resistant sunscreens. Pregnancy-safe

Synthetic tripeptide modeled on a peptide from the temple viper venom. Marketing compares it to botox; actual clinical studies are scarce

Broad-spectrum chemical UVA filter. Covers the UVA1 range (340–400 nm) where mineral filters are weaker. Photounstable – requires stabilizers (octocrylene, Tinosorb S)

Polysaccharide from red algae – a gelling agent. Used as a thickener and film-former in masks. Pregnancy-safe

Third-generation synthetic retinoid. Photostable, less irritating than tretinoin. Available OTC at 0.1% concentration (Differin)

Natural nucleoside acting via skin adenosine receptors. Stimulates collagen synthesis and improves skin firmness

Naturally derived dicarboxylic acid with antibacterial, sebum-regulating, and depigmenting properties. One of the few prescription-grade ingredients considered safe in pregnancy

Centella triterpene acid. Stronger anti-inflammatory effect than asiaticoside in vitro; activates TGF-β for collagen synthesis

One of four active triterpene compounds in Centella asiatica. Stimulates type I and III collagen synthesis in the dermis. Wound healing and anti-inflammatory effect

Film-forming polymer that creates a water-resistant film on the skin. Widely used in sunscreens to improve water resistance and even distribution of UV filters

Porous carbon with high adsorption surface. In cleansing masks and pastes it binds dirt, sebum and pigments from the skin surface and gives the formula its signature black colour

Non-essential amino acid. Part of the skin's natural moisturizing factor (NMF), humectant

Naturally derived uric acid derivative. Accelerates cell proliferation, reduces irritation, and softens the stratum corneum

Gel from aloe leaves containing polysaccharides, vitamins, and amino acids. Moisturizes, soothes irritated skin, and accelerates healing of minor injuries

Sodium salt of alginic acid from brown algae (laminaria, ascophyllum). A natural thickener and film former – it builds a gel and holds water. Common in masks, gels, and foundations. Low allergenicity and pregnancy-safe

Alpha isomer of arbutin. An order of magnitude more active than beta-arbutin with the same safety profile. Modern lightening cosmetics standard

Prebiotic oligosaccharide that supports the skin microbiome balance. Boosts beneficial flora growth and suppresses pathogens

Synthetic ingredient with a violet and woody scent. On the EU list of 26 fragrance allergens

Amphiphilic antioxidant soluble in both water and oils. Skincare promises «universal anti-aging protection»; clinical studies more often show a moderate effect

Modified corn starch – an oil absorbent and mattifying agent. Gives creams and powders a soft-focus effect and absorbs sebum. Non-comedogenic and pregnancy-safe

Synthetic ingredient with a jasmine scent. On the EU list of 26 fragrance allergens

Stable water-soluble vitamin C derivative. More oxidation-stable than L-ascorbic acid, but antioxidant and brightening activity are lower

Hypotaurine – amino acid, taurine precursor. In sunscreens works as a secondary antioxidant: stabilizes photo-unstable avobenzone, extending UVA protection duration. Safe, no standalone cosmetic effects

Synthetic polymer thickener (Aristoflex AVC). Stable in a wide pH range of 4-12 and works in cold-process formulas. Builds lightweight gels and emulsions without tackiness. Low allergenicity, non-comedogenic. No standalone skincare effect, pregnancy-safe

Modified silicone with amino groups. On skin and hair it anchors more firmly than regular dimethicone and provides a stronger protective effect

Dehydrated form of xylitol, humectant. Often part of the Aquaxyl complex (with xylitol and xylitylglucoside)

Fragrance ingredient with an anise scent. Occurs in star anise essential oils and appears on the EU list of 26 allergens

Branched polysaccharide from larch with prebiotic action. Feeds beneficial skin microbiota, forms a soft protective film and reinforces the barrier

Natural glycoside derivative of hydroquinone. A skin-lightening agent that inhibits tyrosinase. Milder than hydroquinone, works on skin through gradual hydrolysis

Oil from argania fruit kernels. Contains oleic and linoleic acids, tocopherols, and sterols. Moisturizes, softens, and supports the lipid barrier

Amino acid; participates in collagen synthesis and acts as a pH regulator replacing synthetic alkalis. In skin formulas works as a mild humectant

Lipid-soluble ester of vitamin C with palmitic acid. More stable than L-ascorbic acid, does not require acidic pH, and fits oil and emulsion formulas. However, hydrolysis in skin is limited and true vitamin C bioactivity is reduced. Often used as an antioxidant to stabilise oils in formulation

Stable glycoside of ascorbic acid. Converted to vitamin C by alpha-glucosidase after skin penetration

Oil-soluble vitamin C derivative. More stable than L-ascorbic acid with better penetration through the lipid barrier. Converts to ascorbic acid inside the skin

NMF amino acid – a component of the skin's natural moisturizing factor. Pregnancy-safe

Red carotenoid from the microalga Haematococcus pluvialis. A strong antioxidant, but topical formulas run into its low penetration ability

Collagen with enzymatically cleaved telopeptides at the molecule ends. Removing terminal regions lowers immunogenicity and eases protein handling in formulas

Sodium salt of acetic acid – a pH regulator and buffer. Pregnancy-safe

Updated version of the Argireline peptide. Marketing promises a reduction of expression wrinkles «like botox», but clinical effects are much more modest