Salicylic and azelaic acids, benzoyl peroxide, niacinamide, and other ingredients for inflammation, comedones, and post-acne.
43 ingredients in database · 30 with tier A/B evidence · 18 safe in pregnancy
Acne is a multifactorial condition: hyperkeratosis of hair follicle openings, excess sebum, Cutibacterium acnes overgrowth, and inflammation. Effective ingredients must address at least one of these mechanisms.
Retinoids (tretinoin, adapalene, trifarotene) are first-line therapy for comedonal and inflammatory acne. They accelerate epidermal turnover, dissolve microcomedones, and reduce sebum production. Adapalene 0.1% is OTC in most countries and has the best tolerability profile among classical retinoids. Trifarotene (Aklief 0.005%) is a fourth-generation retinoid effective on facial and truncal acne.
Salicylic acid 0.5–2% is a lipophilic beta-hydroxy acid. It penetrates sebaceous glands, dissolves plugs, and has anti-inflammatory action. Its lipophilic derivative LHA (capryloyl salicylic acid) penetrates even deeper and works better on post-acne marks.
Benzoyl peroxide 2.5–10% is an antibacterial agent that does NOT induce antibiotic resistance – a major advantage over clindamycin and erythromycin. The 2.5% concentration matches 10% efficacy with less irritation; this is the consensus in modern guidelines.
Azelaic acid 15–20% is a rare ingredient that works on acne, pigmentation, and is safe in pregnancy. OB-GYNs frequently prescribe it during pregnancy when retinoids are contraindicated.
Niacinamide at 4–5% regulates sebum production and reduces inflammation. It pairs well with retinoids, softening their irritation, and with benzoyl peroxide.
Adapalene
Third-generation synthetic retinoid. Photostable, less irritating than tretinoin. Available OTC at 0.1% concentration (Differin).
Azelaic Acid
Naturally derived dicarboxylic acid with antibacterial, sebum-regulating, and depigmenting properties. One of the few prescription-grade ingredients considered safe in pregnancy.
Benzoyl Peroxide
Antibacterial agent that kills C. acnes by generating oxygen free radicals. Does not induce antibiotic resistance – a key advantage over antibiotics.
Betaine Salicylate
Ester of betaine and salicylic acid. A milder alternative: releases salicylic acid gradually on skin, providing surface keratolytic action.
Glycolic Acid
Alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA) with the smallest molecular weight in the group. Accelerates desquamation, evens skin tone and texture.
Evigrade currently tracks 43 ingredients in the «anti-acne» category. Of those, 30 carry evidence tier A or B.
18 ingredients in this category are flagged as safe during pregnancy at typical cosmetic concentrations. 5 should be avoided. Always confirm the choice with an OB-GYN.
24 ingredients in this category show both low irritation potential and low allergen risk, making them safe even for reactive and sensitised skin. A patch test is still advisable before first use.
Start with a single high-evidence ingredient (tier A or B) at a low concentration, 2–3 times per week. After 2–3 weeks without reaction, frequency can be increased. Do not introduce two new actives at once – if skin reacts, you won't know which one caused it.
Other categories
Third-generation synthetic retinoid. Photostable, less irritating than tretinoin. Available OTC at 0.1% concentration (Differin)
Naturally derived dicarboxylic acid with antibacterial, sebum-regulating, and depigmenting properties. One of the few prescription-grade ingredients considered safe in pregnancy
Antibacterial agent that kills C. acnes by generating oxygen free radicals. Does not induce antibiotic resistance – a key advantage over antibiotics
Bentonite clay based on montmorillonite. A strong adsorbent that pulls sebum and impurities from pores, used in masks for oily and acne-prone skin
Ester of betaine and salicylic acid. A milder alternative: releases salicylic acid gradually on skin, providing surface keratolytic action
Bark and leaf extract with astringent and anti-inflammatory properties. Common in toners, but the distillate usually contains alcohol
Alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA) with the smallest molecular weight in the group. Accelerates desquamation, evens skin tone and texture
Topical antiparasitic agent that works against Demodex mites and rosacea inflammation. Galderma markets it as Soolantra
Water-soluble azelaic acid derivative. Gentler but less effective than pure azelaic acid. Used in OTC brightening products
White clay based on hydrated aluminosilicate. Gently adsorbs excess sebum and impurities, so it appears in masks for oily skin
Lipophilic derivative of salicylic acid with a caprylic (C8) chain. Unlike plain salicylic acid, it penetrates deeper into sebaceous gland openings thanks to its lipid solubility. Developed by L'Oreal and actively used in the La Roche-Posay Effaclar line. Targets comedones and post-acne marks more than inflammation
Imidazole derivative against Malassezia. Often paired with zinc pyrithione or piroctone olamine in anti-dandruff shampoos and seborrheic dermatitis products
Topical lincosamide antibiotic. Doctors prescribe it for inflammatory acne, often combined with benzoyl peroxide to prevent resistance
A chalcone from liquorice root (Glycyrrhiza inflata). Acts on multiple inflammation pathways: inhibits NF-κB and suppresses pro-inflammatory cytokines (IL-6, TNF-α). In clinical studies it shows effects in rosacea and sensitive skin, and inhibits Propionibacterium acnes growth. Key active in the Eucerin Anti-Redness and Eucerin Dermo-Pure lines
Essential omega-6 fatty acid. Key component of type-1 ceramides (Ceramide EOS, EOH) – the foundation of skin barrier function. In acne patients, sebum linoleic acid is often low, contributing to pilosebaceous inflammation. Topical application in acne and dry skin restores the balance. Present in safflower, sunflower, and grape seed oils
Oil from seeds of the Indian neem tree (Azadirachta indica). Its characteristic garlic-sulphur odour is a major drawback. Used in Ayurveda and Indian cosmetics for acne, dandruff, psoriasis, and head lice. The main active is azadirachtin. Limited use outside India due to the smell; in the EU it is considered a moderate allergen
Oil from passion-flower seeds. Up to 70% linoleic acid – a high omega-6 contribution to the barrier, especially for acne-prone skin. Contains tocopherols and carotenoids as natural antioxidants. Non-comedogenic and pregnancy-safe
Dark green oil from Pacific islands. Contains calophyllolide and inophyllin – compounds with anti-inflammatory and wound-healing action. Used for acne, scars and post-acne marks
Essential oil with antibacterial activity against C. acnes. Terpinen-4-ol is the main active component. Acne efficacy confirmed, but irritation is possible
Topical antibiotic from the nitroimidazole group. Doctors prescribe it for papulo-pustular rosacea and perioral dermatitis
AHA with a large molecule (bigger than glycolic acid). Penetrates skin more slowly, making it gentler. Suitable for darker phototypes where glycolic acid more often triggers post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation
Water-soluble stable vitamin C derivative. Skin phosphatase releases active ascorbic acid. Active at pH 7 – does not require acidic pH
Vitamin B3 form with a wide action spectrum: brightens pigmentation, strengthens the barrier, minimizes pores, and reduces sebum production
Proteolytic enzyme from papaya. Gently dissolves keratin of dead cells and works as a gentle alternative to acid peels
Second-generation antifungal agent, a zinc pyrithione replacement. Effective against Malassezia – the fungus causing dandruff and seborrheic dermatitis
Resinous substance bees collect from tree buds. Contains flavonoids, phenolic acids, and esters with antimicrobial and anti-inflammatory activity
Beta-hydroxy acid (BHA) with lipophilic properties: penetrates sebaceous glands, dissolves plugs, and exerts anti-inflammatory effects
Lipophilic salicylic acid derivative linked to phytosphingosine (a ceramide precursor). Combines exfoliating and barrier-restoring properties
Elemental sulfur in colloidal form. One of the oldest topical anti-acne ingredients. Disrupts hyperkeratosis at follicular openings and provides mild keratolytic and antibacterial effects. Used for acne and seborrheic dermatitis. The characteristic smell limits patient acceptability
Silicon dioxide, absorbent and mattifying agent. Soaks up sebum and gives the skin a smooth matte finish
Third-generation topical retinoid with strong antiproliferative action. Doctors prescribe it for psoriasis, acne and photoaging
Retinoic acid – the most active topical form of vitamin A. A prescription drug and the gold standard for topical anti-aging and acne treatment
Fourth-generation retinoid with selective action on RAR-gamma receptors. Galderma markets it as Aklief for facial and truncal acne
Zinc salt of pyrrolidone carboxylic acid (NMF). A seboregulator that reduces sebum production. Used in products for oily skin and acne
Antifungal active in anti-dandruff shampoos. Suppresses Malassezia, reduces scaling and scalp itch. Since 2022 EU restricts cosmetic use to rinse-off formats only
White willow bark extract, natural source of salicylates. Works more gently than synthetic salicylic acid and delivers a mild exfoliating effect
Neem leaf extract (Azadirachta indica) – an Ayurvedic ingredient with antimicrobial and anti-inflammatory action. Helps acne and irritation. Pregnancy-safe at cosmetic concentrations
Water-alcohol extract of tea tree leaves – a milder form than the essential oil. Antimicrobial action against Cutibacterium acnes. Pregnancy-safe
Water or glycol extract of Melaleuca alternifolia leaves. A milder, less potent relative of tea tree essential oil. Antibacterial effect is weaker than the oil's, allergenic potential is lower
Wormwood extract – antibacterial and toning action. Contains thujone; pregnant women should avoid at high concentrations
Common thyme leaf extract with thymol and carvacrol. Suppresses growth of Cutibacterium acnes and other skin bacteria, delivers a mild anti-inflammatory effect
Ethyl ester of linoleic acid (omega-6). Lightweight emollient that integrates into the skin barrier and replenishes linoleic acid deficiency – the mechanism behind its benefit for acne-prone skin. Use levels 1-5%. Non-comedogenic and pregnancy-safe
Mild dicarboxylic acid with anti-inflammatory and antibacterial action. Popular in Korean and Indian acne cosmetics
What works poorly: plant extracts without an active compound, activated charcoal in masks («pore detox» is a marketing myth), tea tree oil below 5%, «pore-clearing» clay masks.