Cosmetic ingredients for cracked, stinging, over-exfoliated skin after acid use. Evidence-based traffic light for each.
24 ingredients in database · 20 with tier A/B evidence · 22 safe in pregnancy
An over-exfoliated barrier presents with a recognisable cluster: tightness and stinging after any product (even water), shiny patches where the stratum corneum is thinned, persistent erythema, paradoxical oiliness as sebum compensates for water loss. Clinically this is acute irritant contact dermatitis from cumulative AHA, BHA, vitamin C, or retinoid overuse. Corneometry shows hydration values 30 to 50% below baseline, TEWL doubles or triples. Recovery takes 2 to 4 weeks of strict damage control before any active can return.
Step one is occlusion. Petrolatum reduces TEWL by 99% and remains the dermatology reference standard for acute barrier failure. Vaseline, Aquaphor, CeraVe Healing Ointment are valid options. For daytime when petrolatum feels too heavy, La Roche-Posay Cicaplast Baume B5+ and Avene Cicalfate+ combine lighter occlusives with panthenol and copper-zinc-manganese complex that has randomised data on post-procedure healing.
Step two is lipid replacement. The 3:1:1 ratio of ceramides, cholesterol, and free fatty acids matches the native stratum corneum composition and reverses TEWL faster than any single component. EpiCeram, CeraVe Moisturizing Cream, and Avene Tolerance Control are formulated around this principle. Panthenol at 5% boosts ceramide synthesis from within. Colloidal oatmeal (Avena Sativa Kernel Flour) is the only OTC ingredient with an FDA skin protectant monograph and calms itch in compromised skin within days.
Step three is anti-inflammatory support. Centella asiatica and madecassoside dial down the inflammatory cascade. Niacinamide 4% rebuilds ceramide synthesis and reduces redness. Allantoin and bisabolol layer in for stinging relief.
Asiatic Acid
Centella triterpene acid. Stronger anti-inflammatory effect than asiaticoside in vitro; activates TGF-β for collagen synthesis.
Asiaticoside
One of four active triterpene compounds in Centella asiatica. Stimulates type I and III collagen synthesis in the dermis. Wound healing and anti-inflammatory effect.
Allantoin
Naturally derived uric acid derivative. Accelerates cell proliferation, reduces irritation, and softens the stratum corneum.
Beta-Glucan
Polysaccharide from yeast, fungal, or oat cell walls. An immunomodulator and humectant that stimulates macrophages and accelerates wound healing.
Petrolatum
Occlusive emollient made of purified hydrocarbons. Reduces transepidermal water loss by nearly 99% and restores the skin barrier after damage.
Evigrade currently tracks 24 ingredients in the «compromised barrier rebuild» category. Of those, 20 carry evidence tier A or B.
22 ingredients in this category are flagged as safe during pregnancy at typical cosmetic concentrations. Always confirm the choice with an OB-GYN.
24 ingredients in this category show both low irritation potential and low allergen risk, making them safe even for reactive and sensitised skin. A patch test is still advisable before first use.
Start with a single high-evidence ingredient (tier A or B) at a low concentration, 2–3 times per week. After 2–3 weeks without reaction, frequency can be increased. Do not introduce two new actives at once – if skin reacts, you won't know which one caused it.
Other categories
Centella triterpene acid. Stronger anti-inflammatory effect than asiaticoside in vitro; activates TGF-β for collagen synthesis
One of four active triterpene compounds in Centella asiatica. Stimulates type I and III collagen synthesis in the dermis. Wound healing and anti-inflammatory effect
Naturally derived uric acid derivative. Accelerates cell proliferation, reduces irritation, and softens the stratum corneum
Polysaccharide from yeast, fungal, or oat cell walls. An immunomodulator and humectant that stimulates macrophages and accelerates wound healing
Plant phytosterol structurally close to cholesterol. Softens skin and supports the lipid barrier, especially in dryness and flaking
Occlusive emollient made of purified hydrocarbons. Reduces transepidermal water loss by nearly 99% and restores the skin barrier after damage
Enzymatically cleaved centella extract – increased bioavailability of triterpenes and peptides. Barrier regeneration. Pregnancy-safe
Natural sugar-lipid molecules – mild bio-surfactants or emollients. Pregnancy-safe
Sphingolipid family of the stratum corneum; barrier component. Functional formulation ingredient with no standalone activity on the skin
Finely ground oat flour with anti-inflammatory, moisturizing, and barrier properties. FDA-approved as an OTC skin protectant. Avenanthramides are the active anti-inflammatory compounds
Centella triterpene acid. With asiaticoside it forms TECA – a clinically proven wound-healing preparation
The primary triterpenic glycoside from Centella asiatica. Suppresses inflammation and stimulates type I collagen synthesis. More standardized than raw centella extract
Purified cosmetic-grade liquid hydrocarbon oil. Works as a mild occlusive, reduces moisture loss and tolerates the skin as well as petrolatum
Vitamin B3 form with a wide action spectrum: brightens pigmentation, strengthens the barrier, minimizes pores, and reduces sebum production
Alcohol analogue of pantothenic acid. Penetrates skin and converts to pantothenic acid, required for coenzyme A synthesis. Accelerates healing and reduces irritation
Lipophilic salicylic acid derivative linked to phytosphingosine (a ceramide precursor). Combines exfoliating and barrier-restoring properties
Hydrogenated form of squalene, a natural component of sebum. A lightweight emollient that does not clog pores and restores the lipid barrier
Ceramide precursor supporting stratum-corneum sphingolipid synthesis. Functional formulation ingredient with no standalone activity on the skin
Sphingolipid and precursor of ceramides. Supports barrier function and regulates the skin microbiome through mild antimicrobial activity
One of the three key stratum corneum lipids alongside ceramides and fatty acids. Helps restore the barrier in dryness and atopic dermatitis
Tropical plant whose extract contains asiaticoside, madecassoside, and brahmoside. Stimulates collagen synthesis and reduces inflammation
A bioidentical ceramide from the non-hydroxylated class. One of the main lipids of the stratum corneum – restores the barrier and lowers TEWL. Pregnancy-safe
Lipids constituting approximately 50% of the stratum corneum. Ceramide deficiency is a key factor in the pathogenesis of atopic dermatitis and xerosis
Zinc salt of pyrrolidone carboxylic acid (NMF). A seboregulator that reduces sebum production. Used in products for oily skin and acne
Strict no-list during recovery: AHA, BHA, vitamin C (any concentration), retinoids, benzoyl peroxide, physical scrubs, hot water, fragrance, essential oils, alcohol-based toners, sheet masks with «brightening» actives. Any of these will reset the clock. Reintroduce one active at most every 7 to 10 days, at half the previous frequency, once skin tolerates a plain moisturiser without stinging for several consecutive days.