Cosmetic ingredients within 48 hours of UV damage, for redness and barrier loss. Evidence-based traffic light for each.
28 ingredients in database · 23 with tier A/B evidence · 26 safe in pregnancy
UV-B sunburn (290 to 320 nm) peaks at 12 to 24 hours after exposure. Histology shows scattered «sunburn cells» (apoptotic keratinocytes), dermal vasodilation, infiltrate of neutrophils and lymphocytes, release of prostaglandins (PGE2) and interleukins that drive erythema, pain, and oedema. UV-A contribution adds deeper dermal damage that does not produce immediate burn but accelerates photoaging and pigmentation. Severe burns (Fitzpatrick I to II with prolonged unprotected exposure) progress to blistering within 24 to 48 hours and warrant medical assessment.
First-aid window is the first 6 hours. Cool compresses or a 15-minute lukewarm shower lower skin temperature and reduce the inflammatory cascade. Topical NSAIDs (diclofenac 1%) and oral ibuprofen 400 to 600 mg started within 6 hours reduce pain and oedema with RCT support. Avoid petrolatum-heavy occlusives on hot inflamed skin – they trap heat and worsen symptoms. Light humectant lotions with glycerin and hyaluronic acid feel better and absorb without trapping warmth.
Hours 12 to 72 are repair window. Aloe vera gel (pure, not the green dyed kind) has weak but real anti-inflammatory data; cooling effect is part of the relief mechanism. Panthenol 5% accelerates re-epithelialisation and reduces erythema in clinical trials on post-UV skin. Centella asiatica extract calms inflammation. Niacinamide 4% rebuilds barrier function and has emerging data on reducing UV-induced inflammation when applied within 24 hours. Vitamin E (tocopherol) topically may marginally reduce UV-induced damage if applied soon enough; oral vitamin C plus E has RCT support for raising minimal erythema dose with sustained intake.
Asiaticoside
One of four active triterpene compounds in Centella asiatica. Stimulates type I and III collagen synthesis in the dermis. Wound healing and anti-inflammatory effect.
Allantoin
Naturally derived uric acid derivative. Accelerates cell proliferation, reduces irritation, and softens the stratum corneum.
Aloe Vera
Gel from aloe leaves containing polysaccharides, vitamins, and amino acids. Moisturizes, soothes irritated skin, and accelerates healing of minor injuries.
Beta-Glucan
Polysaccharide from yeast, fungal, or oat cell walls. An immunomodulator and humectant that stimulates macrophages and accelerates wound healing.
Bisabolol
Monocyclic terpene from chamomile or a synthetic analogue. Anti-inflammatory, soothing, and enhances penetration of other actives through the skin barrier.
Evigrade currently tracks 28 ingredients in the «post-sunburn repair» category. Of those, 23 carry evidence tier A or B.
26 ingredients in this category are flagged as safe during pregnancy at typical cosmetic concentrations. Always confirm the choice with an OB-GYN.
27 ingredients in this category show both low irritation potential and low allergen risk, making them safe even for reactive and sensitised skin. A patch test is still advisable before first use.
Start with a single high-evidence ingredient (tier A or B) at a low concentration, 2–3 times per week. After 2–3 weeks without reaction, frequency can be increased. Do not introduce two new actives at once – if skin reacts, you won't know which one caused it.
Other categories
One of four active triterpene compounds in Centella asiatica. Stimulates type I and III collagen synthesis in the dermis. Wound healing and anti-inflammatory effect
Naturally derived uric acid derivative. Accelerates cell proliferation, reduces irritation, and softens the stratum corneum
Gel from aloe leaves containing polysaccharides, vitamins, and amino acids. Moisturizes, soothes irritated skin, and accelerates healing of minor injuries
Polysaccharide from yeast, fungal, or oat cell walls. An immunomodulator and humectant that stimulates macrophages and accelerates wound healing
Monocyclic terpene from chamomile or a synthetic analogue. Anti-inflammatory, soothing, and enhances penetration of other actives through the skin barrier
Aloe leaf hydrosol. Used as a base in light textures and toners; gives a soothing feel but lacks the activity of aloe juice
Water-based centella extraction. Active madecassoside levels are lower than in alcoholic extracts
Sodium salt of hyaluronic acid. Structurally more stable than the acid itself and more common in formulations. Molecular weight determines behaviour: high-MW (> 1 MDa) holds water at the surface, low-MW (< 50 kDa) penetrates deeper. Cosmetics typically use a mix of MWs. A baseline moisturising active across all segments
Natural polysaccharide that binds water up to 1000 times its own weight. Topical application creates a surface humectant effect without dermal penetration
The simplest trihydric alcohol and one of the most common humectants in cosmetics. Draws water from the environment and retains it in the stratum corneum
Active component of licorice root. Anti-inflammatory effect supported by RCTs in atopic dermatitis and rosacea
Salt form of glycyrrhizic acid from licorice root. Anti-inflammatory and soothing; a staple of sensitive/reactive skin formulas
Finely ground oat flour with anti-inflammatory, moisturizing, and barrier properties. FDA-approved as an OTC skin protectant. Avenanthramides are the active anti-inflammatory compounds
A chalcone from liquorice root (Glycyrrhiza inflata). Acts on multiple inflammation pathways: inhibits NF-κB and suppresses pro-inflammatory cytokines (IL-6, TNF-α). In clinical studies it shows effects in rosacea and sensitive skin, and inhibits Propionibacterium acnes growth. Key active in the Eucerin Anti-Redness and Eucerin Dermo-Pure lines
The primary triterpenic glycoside from Centella asiatica. Suppresses inflammation and stimulates type I collagen synthesis. More standardized than raw centella extract
Carboxymethyl derivative of beta-glucan from yeast or oats – a water-soluble form with improved bioavailability. An immunomodulator with anti-inflammatory activity. Useful in atopic dermatitis and post-procedure recovery. Pregnancy-safe
Vitamin B3 form with a wide action spectrum: brightens pigmentation, strengthens the barrier, minimizes pores, and reduces sebum production
Broad-spectrum mineral UV filter (UVA + UVB). Acts as a physical screen, reflecting and scattering ultraviolet light. Also has anti-inflammatory and drying properties
Alcohol analogue of pantothenic acid. Penetrates skin and converts to pantothenic acid, required for coenzyme A synthesis. Accelerates healing and reduces irritation
Purified aloe vera polysaccharide fraction – acemannan and related glucomannans. Deep hydration and anti-inflammatory action. Pregnancy-safe
Stable ester form of vitamin E. Skin enzymes release active tocopherol. Less allergenic than pure tocopherol and more shelf-stable
Fat-soluble antioxidant and primary lipid antioxidant of the stratum corneum. Stabilizes cell membranes and enhances photoprotection when combined with vitamin C
Disaccharide of two glucose molecules, synthesized by microorganisms and plants under stress. Protects cell membranes from dehydration and holds water in skin
Tropical plant whose extract contains asiaticoside, madecassoside, and brahmoside. Stimulates collagen synthesis and reduces inflammation
Source of polyphenols, the main one being EGCG (epigallocatechin-3-gallate). An antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and photoprotective agent
Aloe vera flower extract – a complement to the leaf extract, with higher concentration of flavonoids. Antioxidant and soothing action. Pregnancy-safe
Small amino-acid-like osmolyte. Originally isolated from halophilic bacteria in salt lakes. In skin it binds water around cellular structures and membranes, protecting proteins and DNA against UV stress and dehydration. Used in formulations for sensitive and atopic skin and in post-laser protective creams
Natural amino acid synthesised by certain fungi and bacteria. In humans it accumulates in tissues via the specific OCTN1 transporter. In skin it acts as a strong antioxidant, scavenging hydroxyl radicals and protecting mitochondria and DNA. Used in premium antioxidant serums
Days 3 to 7: skin enters desquamation. Ceramide-rich moisturisers (3:1:1 ratio) restore the barrier as peeling sheets release. Colloidal oatmeal helps with itch during this phase.
Hard avoid for the first 2 weeks: AHA, BHA, vitamin C above 10%, retinoids, benzoyl peroxide, exfoliating scrubs, fragranced products. UV exposure on top of healing sunburn massively raises post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation risk – mineral SPF and shade discipline for at least 4 weeks.