Cosmetic ingredients after microneedling, chemical peel, or laser – first 7 to 14 days. Evidence-based traffic light for each.
31 ingredients in database · 27 with tier A/B evidence · 27 safe in pregnancy
Post-procedure skin has predictable physiology. Microneedling creates controlled microchannels 0.5 to 2.5 mm deep that close within 24 hours. Superficial to medium chemical peels (glycolic 30 to 70%, salicylic 20 to 30%, Jessner, TCA 15 to 35%) cause controlled exfoliation with crusting over 5 to 10 days. Ablative fractional lasers (CO2, Er:YAG) leave open columns of denuded tissue that re-epithelialise over 7 to 14 days. Non-ablative lasers (Nd:YAG, 1550 nm) cause minimal surface disruption but transient erythema and oedema.
The aftercare goal is fast re-epithelialisation without infection, hyperpigmentation, or scarring. Evidence-based ingredients sort into three groups. First, occlusion and humectants prevent crust formation and accelerate closure. Petrolatum applied immediately after ablative procedures shortens healing by 2 to 3 days compared to open-air healing. Hyaluronic acid serums under occlusion give a similar effect with better cosmetic acceptance.
Second, regenerative actives. Panthenol 5% accelerates fibroblast proliferation and keratinocyte migration, RCT data on post-laser and post-tattoo skin. Centella asiatica TECA extract reduces erythema and improves collagen quality. Copper-zinc-manganese complex (Avene Cicalfate+) shortens crusting and has trial data on post-procedure healing. EGF (epidermal growth factor) products show modest acceleration of re-epithelialisation but evidence is weaker. Tranexamic acid 3% topically post-procedure may reduce risk of post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation, especially in Fitzpatrick III to VI skin types.
Asiatic Acid
Centella triterpene acid. Stronger anti-inflammatory effect than asiaticoside in vitro; activates TGF-β for collagen synthesis.
Asiaticoside
One of four active triterpene compounds in Centella asiatica. Stimulates type I and III collagen synthesis in the dermis. Wound healing and anti-inflammatory effect.
Allantoin
Naturally derived uric acid derivative. Accelerates cell proliferation, reduces irritation, and softens the stratum corneum.
Aloe Vera
Gel from aloe leaves containing polysaccharides, vitamins, and amino acids. Moisturizes, soothes irritated skin, and accelerates healing of minor injuries.
Beta-Glucan
Polysaccharide from yeast, fungal, or oat cell walls. An immunomodulator and humectant that stimulates macrophages and accelerates wound healing.
Evigrade currently tracks 31 ingredients in the «post-procedure recovery» category. Of those, 27 carry evidence tier A or B.
27 ingredients in this category are flagged as safe during pregnancy at typical cosmetic concentrations. Always confirm the choice with an OB-GYN.
31 ingredients in this category show both low irritation potential and low allergen risk, making them safe even for reactive and sensitised skin. A patch test is still advisable before first use.
Start with a single high-evidence ingredient (tier A or B) at a low concentration, 2–3 times per week. After 2–3 weeks without reaction, frequency can be increased. Do not introduce two new actives at once – if skin reacts, you won't know which one caused it.
Other categories
Centella triterpene acid. Stronger anti-inflammatory effect than asiaticoside in vitro; activates TGF-β for collagen synthesis
One of four active triterpene compounds in Centella asiatica. Stimulates type I and III collagen synthesis in the dermis. Wound healing and anti-inflammatory effect
Naturally derived uric acid derivative. Accelerates cell proliferation, reduces irritation, and softens the stratum corneum
Gel from aloe leaves containing polysaccharides, vitamins, and amino acids. Moisturizes, soothes irritated skin, and accelerates healing of minor injuries
Polysaccharide from yeast, fungal, or oat cell walls. An immunomodulator and humectant that stimulates macrophages and accelerates wound healing
Monocyclic terpene from chamomile or a synthetic analogue. Anti-inflammatory, soothing, and enhances penetration of other actives through the skin barrier
Occlusive emollient made of purified hydrocarbons. Reduces transepidermal water loss by nearly 99% and restores the skin barrier after damage
Sodium salt of hyaluronic acid. Structurally more stable than the acid itself and more common in formulations. Molecular weight determines behaviour: high-MW (> 1 MDa) holds water at the surface, low-MW (< 50 kDa) penetrates deeper. Cosmetics typically use a mix of MWs. A baseline moisturising active across all segments
Natural polysaccharide that binds water up to 1000 times its own weight. Topical application creates a surface humectant effect without dermal penetration
Fragmented hyaluronic acid with a mass <50 kDa. Penetrates the epidermis better than the high-molecular form, but at high concentrations may trigger a pro-inflammatory response
Enzymatically cleaved centella extract – increased bioavailability of triterpenes and peptides. Barrier regeneration. Pregnancy-safe
The simplest trihydric alcohol and one of the most common humectants in cosmetics. Draws water from the environment and retains it in the stratum corneum
Silicone polymer that forms a protective film on the skin to lock in moisture. Gives products a silky texture and does not penetrate the dermis
Mineral UV filter effective mainly in the UVB and short-wave UVA range. Often combined with zinc oxide for broad-spectrum protection
Finely ground oat flour with anti-inflammatory, moisturizing, and barrier properties. FDA-approved as an OTC skin protectant. Avenanthramides are the active anti-inflammatory compounds
Bifidobacteria probiotic lysate, the key active in Estee Lauder Advanced Night Repair serum. Works on skin barrier recovery
Centella triterpene acid. With asiaticoside it forms TECA – a clinically proven wound-healing preparation
The primary triterpenic glycoside from Centella asiatica. Suppresses inflammation and stimulates type I collagen synthesis. More standardized than raw centella extract
Tripeptide-copper complex that stimulates synthesis of collagen, elastin, and glycosaminoglycans. Accelerates wound healing and exerts anti-inflammatory effects
Snail secretion filtrate containing glycoproteins, hyaluronic acid, glycolic acid, and antimicrobial peptides. Popular in Korean skincare for hydration and regeneration
Sodium salt of pyrrolidone carboxylic acid – the primary component of the natural moisturizing factor (NMF). Attracts and retains moisture in the stratum corneum
Carboxymethyl derivative of beta-glucan from yeast or oats – a water-soluble form with improved bioavailability. An immunomodulator with anti-inflammatory activity. Useful in atopic dermatitis and post-procedure recovery. Pregnancy-safe
Broad-spectrum mineral UV filter (UVA + UVB). Acts as a physical screen, reflecting and scattering ultraviolet light. Also has anti-inflammatory and drying properties
Alcohol analogue of pantothenic acid. Penetrates skin and converts to pantothenic acid, required for coenzyme A synthesis. Accelerates healing and reduces irritation
Salmon DNA fragments with molecular weight 50–1500 kDa. Activate purinergic receptors, stimulating angiogenesis and regeneration. Topical application is limited by molecular size
Hydrogenated form of squalene, a natural component of sebum. A lightweight emollient that does not clog pores and restores the lipid barrier
Disaccharide of two glucose molecules, synthesized by microorganisms and plants under stress. Protects cell membranes from dehydration and holds water in skin
Tropical plant whose extract contains asiaticoside, madecassoside, and brahmoside. Stimulates collagen synthesis and reduces inflammation
A bioidentical ceramide from the non-hydroxylated class. One of the main lipids of the stratum corneum – restores the barrier and lowers TEWL. Pregnancy-safe
Lipids constituting approximately 50% of the stratum corneum. Ceramide deficiency is a key factor in the pathogenesis of atopic dermatitis and xerosis
Zinc salt of pyrrolidone carboxylic acid (NMF). A seboregulator that reduces sebum production. Used in products for oily skin and acne
Third, photoprotection. Mineral SPF (zinc oxide, titanium dioxide) only for the first 14 days – chemical filters can sting on broken skin and may trigger pigmentation in healing tissue. Strict sun avoidance for 4 to 6 weeks for medium peels and ablative lasers regardless of SPF.
Strict avoid list for the first 7 to 14 days: any acid (AHA, BHA, vitamin C), retinoids, benzoyl peroxide, physical scrubs, fragranced products, makeup with occlusive silicones on actively healing wounds, gym workouts that cause sweating into the wound, and chlorinated pool water.